The Real Bag: Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Kokka Messenger Bag

Just before summer vacation, I made The Organized Office Bag from the Bag Making Bible. It’s part of my little challenge. In the process, I was reminded of a fundamental lesson about my work. One must buy high quality fabrics to make a high quality bag. It’s tempting for me to buy affordable (cheap!) fabrics and notions. After all, part of the appeal of sewing is that if you make it yourself, you might invest the time but you won’t have to invest the money. The more I sew, the more I see that it’s just not worth it. Too many nicely made bags have turned out off because the fabric wasn’t right. Maybe it wasn’t the right weight or quality or color. Experience has shown, the wrong fabric can turn anything into a disaster.

On the other hand, the right fabric can take a bag right into the stratosphere of bag-making satisfaction! And who wouldn’t love this gorgeous Kalima Echino decoro by Etsuko Furuya for Kokka? The colors! The birdies! The geometric patterns! It’s a cotton/linen canvas and utterly divine. I picked it up at the Stoffenkamer in Ghent during a family trip. My seriously supportive husband took the kids so I could go fabric shopping and congratulated me when I came home with a bag full of fabric gloriousness. What a guy, right?

As cheesy as it sounds – and it sounds so, so cheesy – this bag was the end of a journey and feels like the beginning of the future. My obsession with messenger bag making goes all the way back to 2009. Seriously! This particular bag felt like a massive accomplishment, the cherry on the cake of my years of bag making attempts and education. It’s a Real Bag. We have upholstery weight or heavier fabrics for the exterior and interior. We have interlinings and interfacings to give the bag structure and body. It uses hardware. There are metal parts on this bag, clasps to close the flap, d-rings to fix the strap to the bag body, and a big shiney metal slider to make the strap adjustable. All that adds up to a Real Bag.

This bag features a zip pocket, and elastic pocket, and a divided slip pocket on the inside. I skipped the optional laptop flap, adjusted the dividing lines on the slip pocket, and added a d-ring inserted into the side seam for my keys. I love the elastic pocket. It’s perfect for my water bottle and I use it all the time!

Kokka Messenger Bag

The biggest challenges when it came to sewing was getting the gussets nice and smooth and figuring out the adjustable strap. Two or three rounds on the gusset taught me the trick: align the sewing lines, not the edges of the fabric. In practice, that means the gusset piece is pulled tightly against the body piece. It looked like I had pulled it too tight, but it worked out just right with minimal puckering. Next time I will try drawing the seam line to help with pinning. My brain was terrified of the adjustable strap and convinced I’d manage some kind of ridiculous mistake. In the end it was easy, but I had the music off and practiced the slider placement at least three times before sewing anything down. Nothing like a little primal sewing disaster fear to make a girl work a bit carefully!

So there you go, I feel like I’ve graduated into Real Bag Making now. The next challenge? Translating the lessons learned here into my own design. Hrm…..

2 responses on “The Real Bag: Kokka Messenger Bag

  1. LizMakesBags

    A truly stunning bag, Christine, and I understand exactly what you mean in your write-up, every bag made is a journey and economy just does not work! I too have tried to use cheaper fabrics and the result just isn’t worth the effort you’ve put into it.

    1. Christine Post author

      If you’re going to put all that time and energy into a bag, you and the bag deserve to work with the best! Well, at least I like to believe in that one…

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